South American Adventure - Day Nine, Friday 28th February 2014

We had a quite relaxed start to the day – only had to get up at 8.00am this morning.  We crossed the road to get to the breakfast room – we were just welcomed in, no room number checked or asked our names.  Backpackers – if you want a complimentary breakfast just go to the Hotel Posada Los Alamos!  It filled a hole – Maria’s name is going to be coming up quite a bit feel in the next few weeks!  The minibus was picking us up at 9.00am for our trip today to the Perito Moreno Glacier.  It duly came at 9.15am (we come to expect this now, we are in the land of manyana) – there were three other couples already on – not too bad.  We had one more hotel to pick up from though – would you believe a family with a child!  A small one at that.  Nor a quiet one.  The couple in front of us said that they were on their flight yesterday, and he ran up and down the aisle all the way from Buenos Aires.  Oh, what joy!

We left El Calafate for the 80 kilometre journey to the glacier.  On the way out there was a huge lake that had hundreds of ducks and swans and flamingos on.  Didn’t expect to see any flamingos here.  The scenery along the way was superb – the Andes were just about in view with their snow covered tops.  We stopped at one point so that the guide could show us the Calafate Bush.  Novel – getting out of a bus to look at a bush.  Normally have to get out of a bus and find a bush to pee behind! 

We had to enter a National Park about 50 kilometres out, which is where the glacier is.  The 130 peso fee to get into the park was included in our tour – but someone had to get on the bus and take everyone’s ticket, stamp it, and give it back to them.  Makes a job for someone I suppose.  We then snaked our way upwards, and stopped at a look out on the way.  From here, we could see the lake and the massive glacier that looked as though it was falling between the mountains and had just come to a full stop at the bottom.  The wall of ice was around sixty metres high, with a further eighty to one hundred and twenty metres below the surface of the lake.  Impressive.

We drove on a further few miles, and dropped off the Japanese group and the family (phew) at the “port” for them to have a boat trip.  We went onwards to the actual glacier.  We had four hours here – I thought at the time quite a long time.  There was a café at the top, so we bought a bottle of water and then headed down the fingers of walkways from the top, down through the forest.  It was amazing, and so well laid out.  There were many, many steps, but seats and look outs all along the way.  Every now and then you could hear a crack like a whip, and then a sound like rolling thunder.  We then realised what it was.  When little parts of the ice break off the main glacier it makes a cracking sound, and then when it hits the water it is like thunder.  A huge outward ripple is made in the water, and then the blob of ice bobs back up to the top.  It was amazing to watch.  The walkways were colour coded, so if you just wanted to do a gentle walk you stuck to yellow, red was harder with more steps and orange was medium.

We walked down the red first, which took us to the south face of the glacier.  The perimeter that was facing the lake was around five kilometres long – the rest wedged between the mountains.  What fantastic photos – I have a feeling I may be looking at next years Travel Stop Christmas Card!  Pieces were breaking off every twenty minutes or so – you just had to be looking in the right direction, because once you heard the noise it had already happened.  It was another glorious day – in the early twenties I would imagine.  Who would think that you could be stood next to this much ice wearing at tee shirt.

We went back up to the café for a cup of tea, and then decided to do the orange route as the finale.  We walked down and to the right, on the south face of the glacier.  It was much quieter down here, and we found an area called the “North Balcony” that had a seat, was a lovely sun trap from the wind, and we were all on our own.  Peace.  There was no noise, just us.  I said to Paul that I thought there was a big bit just in front of us that looked as if it might break off.  He said that wouldn’t go for weeks.  Then there was an almighty roar.  From the little snowball like size bits of ice that were coming from the top just in front of us, the whole sheer face of the glacier came crashing down.  What a spectacular sight!  Paul’s battery on his camera was just about to give out, but he managed to video most of it.  It was sheer luck that I was looking at it, and managed to take stills from the tiny snowball start to the whole thing crashing into the lake.  Wow!

We made our way back to the top to meet the guide and the rest of the group.  “Did you see that” she said.  “That was a unique event – never seen that before”.  The English couple said they were in the café at the time, and heard it from in there.  How lucky were we??  Extremely, I would say.  We then started to make our way back to El Calafate, so happy.  We got dropped off a mile or so before we got back to town, so that we could walk along the shores of the lake and see the flamingos.  There were four or five not far from the shore, but the main flock was a few hundred yards out.  Did they not know we were coming?  We had a good walk though, and there were so many ducks and swans in the lake it was still lovely to look at.  Got a bit lost going back to the hotel – it seemed very easy when we left this morning!  Not too lost – Paul have the aforethought to put the hotel note pad in his pocket (not sure why) and just showed some bar tender and he pointed in the right direction.  Time for a cocktail I believe! And to review a few photos and videos!!

South American Adventure - Day Eight, Thursday 27th February 2014

We are leaving Estancia Rincon Chico this morning – all too soon.  The transfer is booked for 9.00am so we had breakfast at 8.30am.  Roxanna asked how we would like our eggs – poached I think this morning.  This seemed to be a new one on her – and Maria.  “How do you do poached eggs?”  Cookery lesson number one.  They came out rather good for a first attempt – and they seemed very pleased they had added something new to their repertoire.  It doesn’t take long to pack when you haven’t unpacked – the down side of this trip.  Living out of a suitcase.  I will be sad to leave this place  - it was just perfect.

We were waiting on the porch for Juan to arrive and the family of pet guanacos came to say goodbye.  They are so friendly – they come and have a sniff around our faces and necks as if to give us a kiss goodbye.  Then the little one picks up the ash tray with her teeth and Paul had to rescue it (one of the Italians smoked).  She started to eat the cigarette butts instead – yuck!  We waited and waited – Juan did not arrive.  What is plan B?  Haven’t got one.  There is no internet until 7pm tonight when the generator comes on, and no phone signal.  Oh well – perhaps we will just have to stay here.  9.30am comes and goes and then at 9.40am Augustine comes out and says that he has spoken to the transfer company on his satellite phone, and they have us down for a 9.00am transfer.  Correct.  He tells them they have a problem – it is 9.40am and no Juan.  They have a problem – I think we have a problem.  No passing taxi here to flag down.

In the distance he spots a moving speck of light.  “There is a car coming” he says.  It is like looking out in the wild west trying to spot the dust from the wagon trains.  The car stops to open the gates along the way and just keeps driving – doesn’t bother to shut them after him.  Augustine is not happy – he could lose all his sheep through an open gate.  For the second time this morning we introduce something new – the word plonker.  They hadn’t heard of that word before, but I have a feeling they may be using it again.  Then the car stops a half mile away and all the doors open.  “Perhaps he is cleaning the car” says Augustine “he has plenty of time!”  At last he arrives – in shades and shorts – and we get the cases in.  Big hugs from Maria and Augustine and Roxanna – how many times does this happen from the owners of the establishment?

We get under way, and he does stop and shut all the gates on the way back.  Hopefully the sheep didn’t spot the open gate and make a run for it.  They all seem quite happy – as far as being able to spot a happy sheep goes – so probably not worth the effort.  For about an hour we are on the gravel roads – and the rattle is still there.  Whatever was about to fall off is still holding on for dear life.  We pull onto the tarmac road, and we must be in range for the phone signal.  His mobile pings quite a few times – wonder who that will be?  As we have plenty of time (!) he pulls over and reads his texts.  He sends a convoluted text back – probably easier than speaking to someone and getting his ear chewed off.  No doubt he needs time to get his story straight.  We now travel at 140km an hour – passing everything else on the road.  Don’t panic Mr Mainwearing – they won’t go without us! 

We do the three hour trip (Roxanna’s timing) in two hours and a quarter.  Not bad – we are all still in one piece.  The airport is as pleasant to check in to as it was to arrive.  Very civilised.  Juan brings the bags in, takes them to the check in desk and hugs the baggage man.  Hopefully with them chatting they won’t notice how heavy our luggage is.  No, they don’t.  No excess baggage charges here either.  There is an airport tax – 32 pesos each, about £20.  I think this is for the airport rather than the government, as we haven’t had to pay it anywhere else.  Even time for a coffee before we board the hour and a half flight to El Calafate! 

The flight left early – my god, everything so far is punctual.  We got another box of biscuit snacks, a lemon biscuit and a chocolate biscuit.  Those that have been on the flight since Buenos Aires will be getting their second box – and after El Calafate the flight goes on to Ushuaia, so those staying on will probably get three.  Lucky them!  El Calafate Airport was as small and clean and efficient as Trelew – although the bags did take a little while longer to arrive.  When they did they were soaking wet – we had arrived in a rain storm.  We were met by a chap from Eurotur, who said it hardly ever rained in El Calafate – seem to have heard that one before.  By the time we had driven to the downtown area – about twenty minutes, the sun was out again and it was really warm.  A good part of my 27kg of luggage is jumpers and warm clothes – not sure I am going to need them.  This was one of my “cold” stops.

The town has a very alpine feel – many of the shops and restaurants are chalet style, as is our hotel, the Posada Los Alamos.  Although this is a huge chalet, which takes up both sides of the road.  One side is a golf club and swimming pool and restaurant, the other side mainly rooms.  We are checked in very quickly and taken to our room.  “Up in the elevator, and then you have to walk” we were told.  We are in the loft conversion!  But it is  a lovely room, with a slanted ceiling, and a bottle of wine and two glasses on the table.  “My sort of hotel” says Paul.  Happy again – whoopee.

We walked the two blocks or so to the main street, and decided to have something to eat in one of the pavement cafes.  The whole feel of this town is après ski – and a good proportion of people are young backpackers I think.  Most of the menus are again in Spanish, so just pick a number, any number, and see what comes!  I think we are getting a little better than that now, and what we thought we ordered was what we ordered.  It was a “Home Beer” pub, and the lager Paul ordered was a non gassy cloudy offering.  We sat at the restaurant that was the fullest, thinking it must be the best, but I think everyone else must have done the same.  We found out the chef was called SpongeBob – hmm.  It filled a hole – not like Maria’s cooking.

South American Adventure - Day Seven, Wednesday 26th February 2014

A very civilised start to the day today.  Breakfast at 8.45am.  We are the only guests at the ranch until later on today, so breakfast was all for us.  The table was laid with fresh fruit, cheese and an assortment of pastries – all cooked by Maria.  We had eggs – I was beginning to think there were no chickens in Argentina!  We are certainly eating well here.

Our activity this morning was horse riding – not sure whether the look on Paul’s face was horror or amazement.  We walked over to the stables where a little family of guanacos followed us.  Maria came out with a packet of biscuits, went over to one of the gates and called a couple of the sheep by name.  They duly trotted over to get their biscuits.  She insisted that her sheep – she had reared a few when they lost their mother – knew their names.  I saw nothing to disbelieve her!  The guanacos were not going to be left out, so they came as soon as they saw the biscuits opened.  Novel pets!

Augustine was coming out with us this morning – and had a hat on that would have adorned any tea pot in the UK.  It looked like he had a tea bag hanging from one side – but when he put it in his ear I realised what it was.  Ipods have reached Argentina!  We went over to the most enormous horses ever – well they seemed that way to me.  Will Paul get on one or won’t he?  Yes he will.  Then he got off and changed horses.  False start.  They produced a step to help you get on – an upturned bucket, very sturdy! – and fitted your feet into the stirrups once up there.  So far, so good.  We were going for a three hour ride to the cliffs, along the cliff tops and back.  We started out, and the sheep all ran in the same direction.  Augustine said when they see the horses they think a gaucho is coming to herd them together.  I don’t think we will quite make the grade for that job on this ride!

On the way we saw guanacos, maras (the wart hog like rabbits) and hundreds of woolly sheep.  It was so peaceful, just the noise of the horses hooves on the soft ground.  It took about an hour to reach the cliffs – Paul was more groucho than gaucho by this time.  His back did not take to riding a horse.  He got off – not sure how he is going to get back on as the upturned bucket didn’t make the journey with us.  From the top of the cliffs we saw elephant seals on the beach below.  The tide was quite a way out leaving rock pools and green seaweed strewn on the sands.  It was so beautiful – although really windy.  Roxanna had said we needed fleece and jacket – but as it was so hot when we left we only put a fleece on.  This was too much.  I am sure it was in the upper 20’s, but the wind was keeping it slightly cooler.  Paul tried again atop his horse for a little while, but felt much better walking than riding, so Roxanna and I went ahead and he and Augustine walked with their horses and put the world to rights for the next hour or so.  Augustine said he was now going to call him John Wayne.  Hmm.  It was a lovely, lovely morning.  Paul said he enjoyed it except for his back - not sure if he did really, but at least he tried.

Back to the ranch and lunch!  Another three course meal that I cut down to two – I really do not want to leave this place another stone heavier.  We had the most delightful prawn risotto – I might have to get the recipe for this before we leave.  And pudding – should have really said no but I am sure it had strawberries in there somewhere.  Need to keep up the five a day!

Two more people are joining us this afternoon, so we will go back to the beach with the elephant seals after they arrive – around 4pm.  So – an afternoon of leisure.  The second novelty of the day!

When the two Italian gentlemen arrived, we all got in the land rover and headed down to the beach again.  I don’t think I will ever get fed up of sitting and watching the elephant seals – every day is different.  We made our way to the beach, and there was just as many there if not more.  A couple of youngsters were play fighting in the surf, whilst the elders of the group just laid sunning themselves.  The wind had got up this afternoon, and the sand was getting in my eyes, nose, mouth and ears amongst other places!

We stayed there for an hour or so, then made our way down to the other end of the beach where the big boys hang out.  On the way we saw a single sea lion – I think he had got out at the wrong place.  He was the only one of his kind, so he had a look around and then just got back in and swam away.  The were well over twenty of the heavies at this end of the beach.  They were quite a bit livelier than they were yesterday.  Mouths were opening all over the place, trying to develop a hierarchy.  Usually, the one with the biggest elephant nose is the boss – he is the oldest.

One just laid on his side, on occasion scratching his stomach, and then stretched from the top of his head, through his hands and all the way down his back to his tail.  Just like a human!  They were all lined up, top and tailed, like kippers.  If one tried to get more comfortable, the other one would move and then it would all kick off – in a small way.  As they are all here to moult and nothing else, there is little point in getting in a proper fight.  Just worth telling the others who is boss if they will listen, and if they don’t, go back to sleep again.

One of the Italians had a lime green coat that zipped up the front, over the face an over the hood.  The eyes were like a beetles goggle eyes sewed into the coat.  Looked a bit daft, but I bet he didn’t have sand where the sun don’t shine!  The sun, though, was still shining.  It was so hot.  We said goodbye to the elephant seals and made our way to the land rover.  Last time for these wonderful creatures.  On the way back to the ranch we saw so many wild animals – it is just a lovely, lovely place here. So peaceful, and so special.

We did bring a momento back – when I took off my shoes I think half of the beach fell out.  It was gone 7pm when we got back – the sun doesn’t set until nearly 8.30pm at this time of year here.  Another lovely meal for dinner – Maria is such a good cook.  She brought us out a little clay pot as a present as we are leaving in the morning.  Another special touch from this special place.

Roxanna took us outside after dinner to show us the stars.  The moon doesn’t rise until well after 1am, so it was completely dark.  As soon as our eyes became accustomed to the darkness, the sky was absolutely full.  She showed us the Southern Cross, Jupiter and Mars.  She pointed out the milky way that goes from east to west.  An upside down Orion, Leo and Taurus.  A few more that I can’t remember which, but it was just magical – and so clear.  Another thing to remember.

South American Adventure - Day Six, Tuesday 25th February 2014

Early morning call this morning as we are leaving the Hotel Territorio and moving on to the Peninsula Valdes – via a few places.  Filipe was meant to pick us up, but he had been called away to a cruise ship that had arrived first thing.  Sure enough, when we opened the curtains this morning the Golden Princess was docked at the pier.  Thank goodness we were not at Punta Tombo today – they may be getting close to their high season totals of three thousand people in a day today!

Juan came to pick us up at 8.00am – from what we had nick named the ghost hotel.  There seemed to be hardly any guests, and even less staff.  I rang the bell three times to check out, and it was only when we went and banged on the kitchen door that someone came.  A beautiful hotel in a beautiful position, but I feel some things need a little tweaking.  Juan’s English was only a tad better than our Spanish.  That could cause some fun.  As we had missed the dolphins yesterday, the “company” had decided that we could have a boat tour to see sea lions on the way to Estancia Rincon Chico today.  Not a problem – the boat leaves at 9.30am and an hour or so after it arrived back we would be arriving at the estancia for lunch.

The sun was absolutely glorious today – the bay sparkled like diamonds.  What a lovely day for hundreds of people to pour off the ship and swamp the little town of Puerto Madryn.  We drove for about an hour, and had to pay a toll to get onto the peninsula.  A little further on there was a museum we stopped at that gave an indication of the original inhabitants and the wildlife that was here.  We stopped there for ten or so minutes – along with a few buses from the cruise ship – you could see all the people with their coloured numbered stickers.  I think this place probably sees only a few people a day usually – today there were hoards. 

We drove to a little town called Puerto Pyramides which is where the boat was leaving from.  The tide seemed quite a long way out, but I assumed that there was a pier or something around the corner.  We got decked out with life jackets, and had to give our names and passport numbers.  Is this so they know who they have lost on the way?  We walked down the road, and round onto the beach.  There was an enormous double decker zodiac – never seen one of them before – hitched up to an enormous tractor.  A couple of smaller boats were taken down to the sea edge by tractors, and then backed into the water.  Novel!  We sat on the boat, fleeces and coats on, boiling.  What on earth was the hold up?  There were about ten people on the boat – lovely.  After about half an hour of beginning to steam up, another trail of about thirty or so people came across the sand.  Cruise ship people!  That filled the boat up to its rafters.  Lovely, not.

We were towed into the water and backed in, and then we set off.  We were going at such a slow pace – probably so the people that were taking pictures with their ipads were fine.  I was beginning to think this was not such a good idea.  Some people went to the upper deck, but I found a bit between decks where you got on and off that was empty.  Suited me fine.  The safety instructions and all the commentary was in Spanish – they didn’t speak a word of English.  At least if they lost us they would know who it was – the only ones that couldn’t understand a word.  I wish I spoke Spanish!

As we rounded the corner, the whole cliff top (when I say cliff, I mean a lump of rock that was about the same height as the top tier of the zodiac) was full of cormorants.  All lined up and ready to go.  A couple were drying off their wings after fishing.  A giant petrol was flying overhead – wow, what a sight!  And then the sea lions came into view.  There were tens and tens of them on the top of the rocks.  A mother and her babies, groups of adults, all just lifting their heads to see who it was that came to pay them a visit.  We slowly made our way along the cliffs, watching all the sea lions from a short distance.  The people made me a bit annoyed – ipads and elbows everywhere.  Hey ho.

We were out for about an hour, then the tractor backed into the water and we had to shoot straight into the trailer bit to get hooked up.  Made it with the first shot!  I think he had done that before.  We were towed back up the sand, and off the boat.  That was on OK trip – my god I am getting fussy.  Paul said he thought that was far too sedate and sanitised for me – he was totally right – but he said it was perfect for him.  Good.  Something I have done right at last, albeit unintentionally.

We got back in the car, and Juan pointed at the map – we were going to go on a small expedition of the peninsula before getting to Rincon Chico.  Neither of us really wanted that, but it was very hard to portray – it was easier to just let him go where he wanted.  We drove for about an hour – great expanse of nothingness either side except for a few choique’s – ostrich like birds – roaming freely.  Then he spotted an armadillo – excellent!  Now I have seen one.  And in Spanish!!

We took some photographs at the Mirador viewpoint, lovely views, but just wanted to get where we were going now.  Saw some rabbits that were as big as wart hogs.  My god – what is coming next!  Half an hour and we were turning in to the road that led to Estancia Rincon Chico.  Hurrah!  The gravel roads that we had been on since virtually leaving Puerto Pyramides seemed to have done something to the car – there was a distinct sound of something wanting to fall off at any minute.  Not my problem now we are here!!

We arrived at the Estancia – a working sheep ranch that has eight rooms for guests.  Roxanna met us at the gate, and showed us to our room.  What a view!  A beautiful expanse of nothing but peaceful nothingness.  The place is very rustic – electricity is only on between 7pm and 11pm.  Who needs electricity?  But what a wonderful place.  This is my sort of holiday.  Paul’s sort can come later – now it is my turn!

We had lunch cooked for us – it is full board here.  One choice – take it or leave it – but lovely home cooked food by the owner Maria.  A three course lunch that was probably the best food that we have eaten since we arrived on this continent.  We finished lunch, and within fifteen minutes the land rover was ready for us at the front, and we set off for the twenty minute drive to the beach to see the elephant seals.  This is the reason you come to Estancia Rincon Chico.  Their beaches are full of elephant seals at various times of the year.  Even David Attenborough has been here to film documentaries on the animals.  We walked the last few yards, and rounded the corner onto the beach.  There were at least thirty males laying on the beach, and as we crept at the back some lifted their heads to see if we were going to cause any trouble.  They soon laid them back down when they felt we were no threat.  We had to keep quite low, as someone standing up might look as though they were ready for a fight.  With weights up to three tonnes per animal – we were not ready for a fight!

We sat at the back and watched the seals moving from one position to another.  At this time of year the seals are predominantly males that have come onto the beach to moult.  What is it with us – if we come to see an animal it is in the process of moulting!  Some of them had half their old skin on – it looked as if they had ragged clothes on.  They have hands like ours with fingernails, that they use to scratch themselves to help with getting rid of the skin.  Once they start to moult, they lay on the beach in the sun to dry out the old skin so that it comes off quicker.  Once they have moulted completely, the older ones go back in the sea and then swim to the Falklands.  Short trip of about 1,500 kilometres!  One made his way down the beach and swam off when we were there.  Amazing!

We watched for about an hour – two males having a face off, one male pushing the other into the sea – and all of this around twenty feet away.  “You like?” says Roxanna.  “We go to see bigger ones!”  We walked for fifteen or so minutes around the beach to the other side of the cliff – passing a few odds and sods of elephant seals on the way – and there was about twenty massive seals.  Why do all the biggest ones congregate in the same area?  We got even closer to these ones – around six feet away.  Just sitting and listening to their snorts – the “boss” of the group lets out an enormous yell, but no-one cares.  In this season, no-one has to be the alpha male.  In the reproducing season the beach is completely covered, but you can’t get this close as the males are usually ready for a fight.

How long we sat and watched I don’t know – all I know is that my bum went numb.  Paul had a bright blue coat on that one of the biggest seals seemed to eye up – he kept flopping his way nearer and nearer to him.  If a seal wants to sit where we are, he will sit there.  You either move or get sat on – and with seals up to five tonnes moving is the best option.  How surreal it felt to be sitting on a rock in the middle of the biggest, fattest elephant seals that I have ever seen.  What an experience!  We walked back to the land rover to make our way back to the house, and saw more of the wart hog rabbits.  Weird creatures!  And ostriches and guanacos and hundreds of sheep.  What a place.

It was gone seven when we got back to the house, so the electricity was on.  I had brought my hair dryer with me, as I had a feeling there wouldn’t be one here, and I was right.  I am sure they won’t mind me using it once a day!  The water was hot for the shower, and my camera battery was plugged in to recharge.  I had, surprisingly, been taking quite a few photos!

Dinner was another three course affair – good job we are only here for two nights as we might have left as big as a house.  Augustin, the owner and Maria’s husband, came and introduced himself and told us the history of the estancia.  He is fifth generation on the farm, and it was he that opened it for guests in 2001.  Very interesting story – and he left a DVD for us to watch of the David Attenborough documentary that was shot here.  Very interesting!

South American Adventure - Day Five, Monday 24th February, 2014

Another early morning call – this time we have breakfast to eat before we go.  Well – if you could call it breakfast.  No egg station here – in fact, not a an egg in sight.  A couple of loaves of bread and a toaster, but you need a spare hour or so to wait for it to toast.  The coffee was hot though, and there were muffins!

Filipe picked us up at 8.00am for our trip to Rawson, initially for our zodiac trip to see commerson dolphins. Just before we left the hotel it started to spit with rain – it had finally arrived, the first rain since October!  Across the whole of the bay was the most vivid and complete rainbow I have ever seen.  One end actually went into the bay – never seen one where the end is so clearly defined.  We travelled through a few showers for about an hour until we came to Port Rawson.  Unfortunately the harbour master had decided that it was too windy, and had just closed the port to anything going in or out.  Bugger!  We drove and had a look at the entrance to the open water through the harbour walls, and there were some quite hefty waves smashing down.  Hmm – I am sure it would have been OK, but I could see the look of relief on someone’s face!

We then had to retrace our steps to get to the road to Punta Tombo – the largest Megallanic Penguin colony in the world.   It took around two hours to get here, travelling along lonely roads with nothing but a great expanse to either side.  The desert like soil only allows a very small amount of vegetation to grow, and not very high at that.  All of the surrounding lands are sheep “estancias” – although there was a distinct lack of sheep.  I suppose when you have the run of hundreds of miles of land you aren’t likely to want to be beside a road!  The only place where the terrain changed was along the valley of the river, where there were trees and greenery abound.  We did learn that it was the Welsh that came over and started the villages here – Filipe’s wife has Welsh ancestors.  Apparently there are many Welsh descendents in this part of the world.  Probably why there are so many sheep!  We turned off the normal road surface with about 20 kilometres to go – and then it was gravel all the way.  Good job we had a 4x4.  We first went to the Visitor Centre – a fairly new building but not very well built.  Most of the toilets were out of order, and it apparently leaks when it rains.  Luckily for us we had left the rain well behind.  It showed what animals we were going to see, and an insight into the life of the penguin.  One room had TV’s all the way round, and were meant to be showing a film where the animals move from one to the other seamlessly.  Some were day, some were night, and all were doing their own thing!  Must have been installed by the same people that installed the toilets and built the roof.  At the height of the season, there are over 200,000 pairs of penguins here. We had to get back in the car for the last kilometre down to where the boardwalk starts.  As soon as we got out of the car there was a penguin sitting under a tree.  We may have left the rain behind, but the wind certainly came with us, and we needed the fleeces and coats that we had brought. On the way down the paths, it was simply littered with penguins.  They build their nests either under a bush, or dig a hole – small or large will do.  Some were in pairs, and some were on their own. 

They arrive back to the colony in September/October time from warmer waters.  They make their way back to usually the same nest as they had vacated at the end of the previous summer.  These nests can be up to three kilometres away from the ocean.  If the lady of the house is in, the male will stick with her from last time.  They mate, and the eggs are laid October/November time.  Both male and female will look after the one or two eggs until they hatch.  They will hatch after forty or so days, so usually be the end of December all the young are born.  The young will feed from their parents until February time, when they will make their way into the sea and that will be the last they see of them.  Unlike children these days!!  By mid April all the penguins disappear in the water, and don’t come back until the weather has warmed up again.

Consequently, most of the chicks had gone by today.  There were a few left, and it was absolutely fascinating watching them take food from the back of their parent’s throat.  One of the first things Filipe pointed out was a sparrow.  Paul and I looked at each other and thought he was mad!  We have them back in the garden at home – we were here to see penguins.  Not sure how many times he has been here though – he probably makes it his mission to try and spot anything other than penguins because of the amount of times he has been here.  He did point out some beautiful Harrier Falcons and other birds of prey that the name escapes me now!  Had to get a few bird shots in!  The penguin sheds its feathers once a year, and this was the back end of when this was happening.  Some of the penguins looked as if they had fur coats on, as the new feathers were under the old feathers and make them look very fat.  Some had half and half, and looked a bit scanky!  Most were absolutely adorable.  Some were resting in their holes alone or in pairs – some were doing more than resting in their holes with their partner!  Some were making a noise like a donkey – sticking their beaks high in the air and shouting at the top of their voices to make themselves heard.  No idea why! Probably a male having a paddy!  Others were waddling about, either with somewhere to go or someone to see.  Penguins have right of way here – if they attempt to cross the path you must let them go.  The rule is you mustn’t get any closer than three feet to the penguin.  If there was one just the other side of the path, and you bop down to get a picture, it keeps putting it’s head from side to side to see you better.  Looks as if it is talking to you!

Going down to the beach area, there were many, many more.  They were swimming and jumping in the water, and generally having fun.  Once they were in the water, they were like a rocket propelled grenade with the speed that they got to when chasing for fish.  They swam on their sides and back and splashed around – supposedly to clean their feathers, but looked as if it was good fun to me.  Back around their nests, little rodent like creatures kept darting around – a bit like a guinea pig.  Nobody bothered anyone though – the penguins only eat fish and the rodents only eat from the undergrowth.  Other animals were wandering around also including a guanaco which is a llama type thing related to a camel.  Amazing.  It seemed like we had only been there an hour or so, but we had been there over three hours.  It is just timeless to watch these creatures going about their business.

On the way back, Filipe spotted an armadillo – well he said he did but I didn’t see it.  Would have liked to have done though.  We had a sandwich at the little café place – run by one person who was making the tea as well.  This place has up to three thousand people visit in a day in high season – hope they all don’t want a cup of tea!!  Today there were very few – at some points it was as if we were all on our own.  Perfect!

It took us a couple of hours to get back, and the sun was shining when we arrived.  Time to relax in the sun – it doesn’t actually go down until around 8.30pm so heavenly after a long day.  Think there may be a few more of them coming up………….

South American Adventure - Day Four, Sunday 23rd February 2014

Early morning call at 07.45am.  We are getting a bit blasé with the two hour check in and starting to cut it a bit fine.  Paul decided he was going to nip down the road to get a McCafe coffee, but came back empty handed as they were shut.  We had used all the powdered milk up yesterday, and not enough time now to order some more and put the filter machine on.  Oh well – we will have to get one at the airport.

We checked out and ordered a taxi from the front desk.  They organised a hotel car for 134 pesos – we got 11.4 to the dollar yesterday, so well under £20.  When we came from the airport, the taxi charged us 280 pesos.  I somehow think we had been “done”.  Probably less than £10 extra, but it was the principle that sticks in the throat.  It was a metered taxi, so we probably were taken on a lovely loop around the city to get to the hotel.  This time the roads were empty as it was a Sunday morning.  Didn’t stop the driver going as fast as he possibly could in between red traffic lights – and there were a few.  I am surprised we haven’t had any scratches or scrapes so far, they all seem to think they are Fernando Alonso.  We are leaving from the same airport we came in to – but the domestic bit instead of the international.  Must have been where our illustrious guide was waiting for us when we arrived a couple of days ago.  Still can’t believe that!

The queue to check in for our flight to Trelew was enormous – all domestic flights with Aerolineas Argentinas were using the same check in desks.  This is why you need to be there two hours before!!  I was heartened by the fact that when one of the flights was closing and there were people on it in the queue, they pulled them out to the front to check them in.  They wouldn’t leave us behind – would they?  We got to the front of the queue no problem though.  For some reason, domestic flights only allow 15kg of luggage.  Not going to happen with us – Paul was dead on the 23kg we had for most of our flights, but mine was 27kg.  He had dutifully weighed it for me before we left home, and told me I had to unpack 4kg worth.  That wasn’t going to happen.  What I need is what I need.  One of us sticks to the rules, and one of us flies by the seat of our pants!!  I was prepared to hand over my credit card for the oodles of excess baggage costs, but the check in guy just smiled and told us to have a good flight.  Good man!

It was plain sailing from here, through security and up to a lovely coffee shop where a latte was a latte, and a muffin was a muffin.  Things were looking up!  The flight boarded a few minutes later, and we actually took off early.  A very pleasant flight of just under two hours.  The snack was a box of bags – one biscuit bits and two biscuits.  Filled a hole!  As we made our way South, the scenery dramatically changed.  The water got a whole lot bluer, and the towns and cities disappeared.  The land was so flat!

We arrived in a beautifully clean and tidy little airport.  There was one baggage carousel that started almost immediately, and we collected the bags ten minutes before we were due to have landed.  Result!  Phillipe from Eurotur was duly waiting for us, sign in hand, and we loaded the bags into his four wheel drive and off we went for the 40 or so kilometres to Puerto Madryn.  The road from the airport is one long road from Buenes Aires in the North to Ushuaia in the South – virtually the length of the country.  There were no turn offs before Puerto Madryn, so it seems it is very difficult to get lost here.  There was a dead cow by the side of the road – it had been hit by a car or truck.  Looking to the left and right there is nothing but flat grazing land as far as the eye can see – and only the one road we are on.  How stupid can cows be? Phillippe did say that one of the volcanoes in Chile erupted last year.  The ash was blown this way, and it shut the airport for 100 days.  They were having to drive customers back to Buenos Aires or on to Ushuaia by car – sixteen hours to the north and over twenty hours to the south.  We arrived at Puerto Madryn in just over half an hour.  We drove through the town and he pointed out various fish and meat restaurants should we wish to indulge.  The Hotel Territorio is right at the other end of the town, on the coast overlooking the bay.  There is a beautiful walk all the way into town via a sidewalk next to the beach.

The weather is again glorious – around 25 degrees.  There are a few sunbeds overlooking the bay – one of them had my name on for a couple of hours.  Paul went to sleep for the afternoon – just can’t understand it.  Anyone would think that I have organised a packed itinerary!  Phillipe said that it may rain this afternoon – it hasn’t actually rained in Puerto Madryn since last October.  It had rained in Trelew, but didn’t get as far as here.  Didn’t get as far as here today either.

We went into town for dinner tonight – and decided to walk.  Well I did, and Paul just followed.  He would have preferred to take a taxi. It was a beautiful evening, and the beach was virtually deserted.  There were a few people walking their dogs, and a lady cycling along the sand, but apart from that very few people.  The tide was on its way out, and seemed to be going out in front of our eyes.  Just left birds paddling in the pools that it left.  There was a stage set up on the edge of town, and a band was just starting to play.  It got better the further we walked from it!  There were football pitches set up along the edge of the beach, and loads of local children were playing.  There was an area where teenagers were skateboarding and body popping.  This place really does have a good atmosphere.  It took around an hour to walk to the restaurant that Paul had his eye on from earlier – Ambigo.  They did good prawns apparently.  I did say that the walk was a lot better than getting the taxi – not sure if the answer I received was a positive or a negative!!  The menu was all in Spanish so it was going to be hit and miss what we actually had. They didn’t open until 7.30pm – we arrived at 7.25pm from our walk so perfect timing.  They had free wifi so I thought it might be a good idea to use google translate from my phone,  But the wifi needed a password – and that was just a step too far!  We just guessed.

The food was good – and including all the drinks came to 330 pesos – around £22.  Very good value for money.  The sunset was lovely – red sky at night and all that.  Should be a good day tomorrow then.  The taxi office was right across the road – no-one here speaks English!  Paul put a Spanish twang onto the name of the hotel, and she immediately understood where we wanted to go.  Result.  The taxi fare was 35 pesos - £2.  This country is certainly good value for money!

South American Adventure - Day Three, Saturday 22nd February 2014

After a good nights sleep, we were awake well in time for our full days walking tour of Buenos Aires.  We decided to have a recce of the area, and go and get a coffee and some breakfast.  We walked down the street and came across a McCafe.  There was a distinct absence of any other coffee shops so we had a latte and muffin – that really was a latte and muffin.  Brits abroad!!

Ceri met us at 10.00am – our tour guide for the day from BuenosTours.  He was born in Canada of British parents with a Welsh name and now lives in Argentina, so there was no language barrier.  He spoke perfect Spanish, and because he has lived in the city for around eight years, knew it like the back of his hand.  The first job we had to do was to exchange some money on the “blue” market.  The hard currency here is dollars, and we got 11.4 to the dollar as opposed to the 7.8 on the official market.  This, apparently, is the way everyone works.  Inflation is quite high, and the peso is not a good currency to have.  The dollar is worth a lot more.  We had been warned of changing money on the streets, as you may get fake notes, but when you are with a local it seemed very safe to do so.  The government taxes everything that comes in to the country over and above a very nominal allowance, so it is also hard to get anything here.  What is available in the shops is very expensive, like mobile phones, and if you order one from another country the government looks at it and decides how much tax you should pay on it – often then making it not worth getting.  This apparently was the thinking behind putting the mobile phone make and model on the paper – but as we were told the idea and the reality are two different things.  Nobody has their immigration form taken from them as this was the idea and the reality was nobody wants to do anything with it.

We then got in a taxi to start our tour in the oldest part of the city – San Telmo.  On the way we passed the “Pink House” which is a bit like the White House in the USA, but the president doesn’t actually live here.  There was a large statue of Christopher Columbus at the back of it, that was all in pieces over the ground.  The present president, Christina Fernandez de Kirchner, decided that it had to come down.  This was an unpopular choice, and as soon as the pieces hit the ground the Governor of Buenos Aires declared it property of the City and there it still is.  We heard about the history of when the British were here, and then the Spanish, and how they fought for independence.  The streets in this part are cobbled and very narrow, and not particularly well kept.  The buildings were ornate, if not a little unloved.  We passed the San Telmo markets that are on at the weekend, where tourists and locals alike shop.  There are many monuments to various generals, and some of the buildings are absolutely magnificent.  Next to them were newer buildings that were downright ugly.  We stopped for a coffee and croissant in a typical café and sat at the table Ceri took us to.  “This is the exact table that the pope used to sit at every day to have a coffee before he went to the Cathedral where he was Arch Bishop before he moved to the Vatican” says Ceri.  Paul was sitting on “the chair”.  That gave a slightly different perspective to the morning coffee!  It was a fantastic place, with tango music playing in the background.

We passed a church that still had cannon balls embedded in one of the towers, although I think they must be replicas because if they were originals the tower wouldn’t still be standing.  Again, it was when they were fighting the British.  We then walked around the square in front of the Pink House – this is where protests about various things happen just about every day.  There is a permanent protest about the Malvinas (Falklands) and a police presence all around.  But everything was peaceful, and apparently usually is.  The Pink House was made famous by Eva Peron, and we saw the balcony where she and her husband made many of their speeches.  The most famous one, the “Don’t cry for me Argentina” one was made from there in the film, but not in real life.  Just made it easier to say it was!  Just down the road was the Cathedral, where we stopped for a short while to have a look.  It was a lovely building, with the body of General San Martin in a mausoleum down the right side aisle guarded by two soldiers.  There was a changing of the guard whilst we were there.  The new guards come marching in with tourists scattering to either side of them.  If one of the tourist doesn’t notice them coming, or gets in their way, they just march on the spot until the way is clear.  Quite amusing.  On the other side down the left hand aisle is a board filled with Jewish writing – one of the things that has shown how moderate the present pope is, and probably helped him to get his present job!  There are not any other Catholic places of worship that allow other religions in.  The cathedral has been rebuilt six times for various reasons, which is why it looks in such good shape I think!  The roads now are wide, as are the pavements, and the buildings are in a completely different style.  We had a quick look in the famous Café Tortoni – there was a queue to get in for overpriced coffee and not so good food we are told - but it looks good!  I much preferred to have sat on the Pope’s seat anyway.

We then went a few stops on the underground – the British designed it and the Irish built it.  We were even entertained by buskers actually on the train.  Very cheap – about 25p.  Much cheaper than the London version!  We then were back around the park outside our hotel where we had walked this morning.  There was the most enormous rubber tree in middle, with metal supports holding up its gargantuan branches.  These trees are very common in Argentina – the Gauchos used them for cover.  There are a couple of statues here, and in the distance a clock tower that was originally called the Tower of the English.  After the Falklands war it was renamed the Monumental Tower, and a memorial to the Argentinian dead was erected facing it. 

We then walked past a very grand house (we had walked past a few, but I can’t now remember which family owned what, but La Paz was one of them) that once had a very good view.  Apparently, the daughter of one house was going to marry the son of another wealthy family, but his father told him he would disinherit him if he did.  He shrugged his shoulders and married someone else to keep the money.  The daughter then built a huge building in the front his one, so that he couldn’t have any view anymore – a woman scorned etc…  We walked down into the Recoleta District, which is the new “Chelsea” of around here.  Full of art galleries and very grand houses – this is where the rich and famous now live.  We had lunch in a little restaurant that is famed for its pasties – who said they originated from Cornwall?  They were delicious.  And it was accompanied by a Penguin of wine.  No – I’m not drunk or seeing things.  The wine here doesn’t come in a carafe, it comes in a Penguin.  Neat!!

The next stop was up to the Cemetery of Recoleta.  The poor used to bury their dead here, but when it was decided that this was going to be the cemetery for the rich, the poor were “politely asked to go away”!  This, we were told, was not like any other cemetery you have ever seen.  A cemetery is a cemetery I thought.  No.  It was a cemetery like I had never seen.  Space is sold here, and there are rows and rows of mausoleums.  Some very large, some very small, but the whole thing is like a town with streets and houses on either side.  Many of the generals and famous people have a spot here – anyone that wants to buy a plot and build what ever they would like to be buried in.  Many are made of marble, some a brick, some have stained glass windows, some have seats inside, and some have coffins!  Not buried at all.  The whole family can go in as long as there is room – so the deeper you bury them the more you can get in.  Some have servants buried with them – well, outside the mausoleum but within the confines of the plot.  Even in death they have their rightful place!  The stories that come with some of these were amazing – something you don’t get out of a guidebook.  Then we came to Eva Peron – who was buried under her family name of Duarte.  Shortly after she died her husband, the president, was overthrown by a military coup, so the body had to be hidden.  It had been taken to Milan, and buried there for fifteen years under an assumed name.  Juan Peron had fled the country, but in 1973 came out of exile and was elected president again.  He had the body exhumed, and was then taken to La Recoleta cemetery and buried in the Duarte family plot.  This is one of the most popular mausoleums in the cemetery.  There are constantly flowers left on the front of the gates to the entrance.  Above one of the mausoleums was a satellite dish – perhaps some of the living relatives like to watch the football whilst visiting the dearly departed!  It really is a surreal place – you just don’t imagine that you are walking amongst rows and rows of dead people.  Some of the stories we were told involved tragic deaths and ghosts.  Yeah right!  Wouldn’t like to be here after dark though!

From here, we went to a lovely ice cream parlour and tried some of the rows and rows of flavours that they have.  Very refreshing!  This brought our tour to an end.  What a fantastic way to have seen this city.  It is the best way to have seen the city, and to have experienced it both as a tourist and a local.  We were probably about a mile from our hotel, so we retraced our steps and got back to the hotel at around 6.30pm having walked around eight miles during the day.  Not once did we feel threatened or intimidated, but we had been warned to not show any jewellery or phones.  Just sensible precautions in a place where pick pockets and thieves operate – as in most large cities.

A shower and change and we were ready to go to the Dinner and Tango Show – when in Buenos Aires…  The Esquina Carlos Gardel in supposed to be one of the better shows – and there are quite a few.  This one includes transfers from the hotel – the venue was around twenty minutes in an area of Buenos Aires that we hadn’t been earlier on in the day.  We passed lots of bars and clubs – it was Saturday night and was quite busy.  We were shown in and to the table – a lovely table at the front of the “dress circle”.  We were given champagne and the menu – very civilised.  The bottom tier was rows and rows of long tables and people were packed in.  I much preferred where we were – but we had paid for the VIP section (as one does when backpacking as we are!).  The menu looked good, but I had read reviews that the food was only OK.  It was OK.  Nothing special, although the steak that I had must have been five inches thick.  The wine was poured freely - not bad either.  A film was being played on a large screen with the history of the Argentine Tango – quite a history because it took over half an hour.  Spanish with English subtitles – although some of it was miss spelt and lost in translation.

We were then invited to have our photo taken with a couple of the tango dancers – and then in the tango position ourselves.  I could just imagine Craig Revel Horwood saying “yours arms are hopeless darling”!  I somehow don’t think we will be purchasing that keepsake.  The show started soon after that, and was very pleasant.  It was about an hour and a half of various dancers, and a male and a female singer.  I looked over at Paul and could see that he was riveted – not!  Oh dear – it was a long and busy day and this was not the way he would have liked to have finished it.  Was it worth the money – probably not.  Would have I wanted to have left Buenos Aires without seeing a tango show – definitely not.  It had to be done.  The show finished around midnight, and the transfer back to the hotel was very smooth and efficient.  Considering how many people were gushing out of the building, this is the bit where the VIP comes in handy.  Back to the hotel to fall into bed ready for an early morning call to go back to the airport!  I can see on Paul’s face that he really wanted a couple of weeks relaxing in the Caribbean.  Instead, I have organised a kind of boot camp.  We shouldn’t have gone to see The Adventures of Walter Mittey or whatever it was – gave me itchy feet!

South American Adventure - Day Two - Friday 21st February 2014

An early morning call at 6.30am – Paul was so pleased.  It didn’t take long to get our things together and check out of the hotel.  Only seems like yesterday we arrived!!  No prebooked transfer on the way back, so the doorman hailed a yellow taxi from the street.  There are different colour taxis for difference parts of the city – yellow will take you out to the airport.  The sun was beating down this early in the morning – it was a beautiful day!  Sunglasses out, and we set off for the aiport.  And the driver was right from last night – the traffic is now going a different way to what it was when we arrived.  We passed most of the places again in daylight this morning – Christ was still keeping an eye on the city from his perch.  He has apparently now had his thumb glued back on after it fell off after being struck by lightening a few weeks ago.  The shanty towns didn’t look so bad in daylight – the driver last night had said you could get a tour round there.  I quite fancied that – but then I got “the look” from Paul who obviously didn’t.  That is another three and a bit weeks away – might have lost him by then!!  We got to the airport in half an hour – we were warned that it would take about an hour in rush hour traffic, but most of the traffic was going the other way.  We hardly got held up at all.  And the bill was under 60 Brazilian Reals – well under £20.  The check in was really slow – perhaps it had been a good move to get here early. 

The international airport is not exactly what I had envisioned.  It is very basic, and we struggled to get a coffee and something to eat.  Economy and no lounges all the way until our homeward flight – oh dear!  We bought what we thought were latte’s and muffin’s – neither being exactly that.  The coffee tasted as though it was made of condensed milk, and the muffins certainly were not muffins.  No idea what they were, but won’t be buying something that looks like that again!  One choice of coffee shop – take it or leave it.  The international airport certainly isn’t one that will be sticking in my mind as state of the art.

Paul decided to take a picture of our plane when we went to the gate – I thought it was a bit odd, the writing on the side looked very much like Alitalia.  We were flying Aerolineas Argentinas.  Nobody seemed to speak any English, but this was the gate that was on the departures board.  Then I noticed that the next flight down from ours was an Alitalia to Rome – don’t think we are going to be on that plane, but we have a nice picture of it!  The queue started moving, so like proper English folk we joined on the end – not really knowing where we were going.  We showed our boarding cards, but no-one really wanted to look.  Oh well – just have to see if anyone else is sitting in our seats, and then we will know that we are on the wrong flight!  No – our seats were empty so we must be on the right one.  I had booked a window and Paul an aisle – and luckily, even though the plane seemed packed, no-one sat in between us so we had plenty of room.  It wasn’t so bad – it could (and probably will be by the end of the trip) have been a whole lot worse.

The three hour trip to Buenes Aires went fairly quickly – and we actually had what looked like a ham and cheese roll, and it was a ham and cheese roll.  The international airport at Buenes Aires competes well with that in Rio.  We were off the plane quite quickly, and onto a bus for a twenty yard trip.  We were through passport control – the form here was only one per family, so as the head Paul filled it in (!) This one actually wanted the make, model and number of your mobile phone as well as the normal information.  When we got through the other side we realised we still had the form – not quite sure when and where that should have gone.  The carousel for the luggage here was something else.  It couldn’t have gone any slower if someone was winding it up from outside.  But, our bags duly arrived, and off we went to meet our prebooked transfer – or not.  No-one there with our name on a board.  We waited half an hour – called all the very useful local numbers and got a recorded message in Spanish on each one.  After scouting round for one last time, Paul changed some dollars into Argentinian Pesos and we headed out for a taxi.  Not a problem at all – apart from the driver didn’t speak much English and the luggage was piled on the front seat as there wasn’t much room in the boot.  I had the address of the hotel written down, and he put it into his sat nav – oh no, not another one that is still learning!  He dropped us off somewhere close to the hotel – he wasn’t sure where it was – and it turns out it was just across the road.  Near enough!  280 pesos later – around £30 – we were wheeling our cases up the ramp.  The doorman came running down to help – obviously doesn’t see “walk in’s” at the Plaza Hotel that often.

After successfully checking in, I asked the chap behind the desk to phone the transfer company to let them know we had arrived, and that they hadn’t!  The woman on the end of the phone insisted there had been someone there and we missed them.  She said she would get the rep to phone, which she dutifully did fifteen minutes later.  She then insisted she was there – although the times she arrived and left seemed to differ whenever she repeated them.  I knew she wasn’t there – and it was making me cross when she kept insisting she was.  In the end, I found out that she had been at the wrong airport – which she found quite funny, then suggested that the pilot must have decided to land at the wrong airport.  I know transport is renowned to be hit and miss in South America, including flights, but I can now put some of that down to stupidity.  Don’t these people look at the flight number and check it has landed and where??  I soon had enough of her, and hoped we wouldn’t bump into each other during our trip.  Idiot!!

That had got me hot under the collar, so there was nothing more for it but to relax by the pool and a campari or two.  Guaranteed to cool things down.  Let the holiday begin – albeit 24 hours late due to landing in a different country to start with.  Better late than never!  We didn’t venture too far for dinner – apparently the Plaza Bar is reputed to be among the best in Buenes Aires, and the Plaza Grill is reputed to be among the best in Buenes Aires – wonder whose propaganda I have been reading!  We did try them though, and although we have nothing to compare them with, they were very good.  Paul ordered a steak, and I have never seen one as big and thick as this one.  Even he couldn’t finish it! But it finished us – early night I think!

South American Adventure - Day One - Thursday 20th February 2014

A first this morning – the taxi arrived and we were ready!  7am departure for the trip to Heathrow and I was packed and ready to go.  I must admit that my heart sunk a bit when we passed our house again five minutes later (the driver turned the wrong way onto the A14 – the job he had yesterday said that was the quickest way).  After this small false start, we started again – the driver said he had only been doing the job a couple of months and was still learning.  Hmm – good job we knew the way, as he did ask a couple of times “is this the right turn?”.  “What time is the flight?” asks Paul.  “12.20” I reply.  “Should have got an overnight hotel at the airport” says Paul “Traffic on the M25 is going to be murder at this time of day.”  Let’s look on the bright side then!  I got a new phone contract a couple of months ago, and it came with a “free” Deezer app – gives one the ability to download music to the phone.  I had dutifully done so – and now decided to plug Il Divo into my ears and hope that we didn’t sit on the M25 for over four hours and miss the flight!

We arrived at Terminal 5 for our British Airways flight to Rio de Janeiro at 9.30am – just over two hours from home, and two wonderful albums later.  I could get used to plugging in and forgetting the rest of the world!  A quick check in as ever at Terminal 5, it really is the best terminal I have ever flown in or out of.  Straight into the business class lounge for breakfast (thank you, once again, Avios for the complimentary flights) and a chill out before our twelve hour flight.  We took off a few minutes late, but who is counting when you are plied with champagne –Taittinger at that!  British Airways now allow kindles to be kept on during take off and landing – such a difference.  There is nothing more annoying than having to switch off a good book for twenty minutes just in case Jeffrey Archer interferes with the aircraft’s systems.  How likely is that going to be??

A really smooth flight, some good food and wines, and caught up with, amongst others, Sunshine on Leith that I missed when it was in the cinema.  What a lovely film – and very uplifting.  Paul slept (or not, so he says) most of the way.  We were soon beginning the descent into Rio, arriving there at 9pm – three hours behind UK time.  For once, the arrival form was really easy to fill in, and we were soon in the short queue for immigration and getting our bags, which were already on the carousel when we came through.  I had prebooked a transfer, and there he was just outside the customs hall.  Excellent!  We took a short walk to a lovely air conditioned car – the temperature in Rio was 27 degrees.  It was around thirty minutes to get to the JW Marriott on Copacabana Beach – we are only here this time around for twelve hours in total.  Long story – but needless to say Avios had something to do with it!  But, the driver spoke very good English and we had a commentary of where we were and what we were passing all the way to the hotel.  “The way that the traffic is going tonight is not the same as the way that it will be going in the morning” so he says.  It gets changed depending on the amount of traffic.  Is that thinking outside the box – or just trying to stop tourists hiring cars! At least we will know something of the layout of Rio for when we come back in three and a bit weeks time.  It was pitch dark, but saw the stature of Christ lit up high on the hill, and passed the shanty towns and then into the city and on to the beach.  The moon was hanging in the sky just above the horizon – beautiful.  The beach bars were buzzing – but we were not, so straight to the room and sleep.  Good job we were only here for one overnight – the room had an “atrium view”.  I am not a lover of rooms overlooking the interior of the hotel, but as we had an early morning call and then out, so the curtains didn’t actually get drawn back.